Price:

Kit contents:

• 12 precision cut 18mm moisture resistant MDF or 19mm solid timber panels (2 fronts, 2 backs, 4 sides, 4 top/bottoms)
• 40mm diameter tuning port
• 4 driver connection wires & 8 spade terminals
• 2 gold plated speaker terminal blocks
• 12 black Philips head screws
• 2 pieces acoustic “wool”

2 Jordan JX92S drivers (ordered separately)

Tools Required:

• PVA wood glue
• Clamps or weights
• Philips head screwdriver
• 80 and 150 grade abrasive paper (power orbital sander makes it easier)
• Damp rags to clean up excess glue
• Hand or power drill with a 2mm & 3mm drill bits for the screw holes

Procedure:

1.                  Firstly check that you have all the components as listed above. Then have a read of all the instructions below so you have an idea of the sequence to follow.

2.                  Lay out the panels so that you understand how they fit together. A flat clean surface (not newspapers) eg an old towel on a table is best. The holes at the bottom of the back panels need to be opposite the hole for the tuning port not the large driver hole. And the rebate for the driver faces out not in.

3.                  Push one of the plastic tuning ports into the rear of a front panel’s 40mm hole a make sure it goes through flush with the front face. If it is too tight use abrasive paper or a half round file to slightly enlarge the hole. Then remove the port and smear some glue onto the end then push it back into the hole. Check that the plastic is flush with the front face and that the tube is perpendicular with the panel. Once the glue has dried you can use abrasive paper to slightly round both ends of the tube.

4.                  Place one of the rebated side panels face down. Spread a layer of glue along all 4 rebates and position a front panel, rear panel and a top and bottom. You’ll also need to apply glue to the rebates of the top/bottoms so that they will adhere to the front and rear. At this stage clamps are very handy to hold the panels together. If you don’t have clamps you can use some elastic or rubber strips around the 4 panels.

5.                  Once you have the 5 panels so far all fitting snugly together you can apply glue to the top edges of the 4 upright panels and then place the other rebated side panel into position.

6.                  Check that all the joins are closed. There should not be any gaps and the excess glue should be wiped off with a damp cloth. Use weights or clamps to hold all the panels in position until the glue dries. Allow about two hours.

7.                  Once the boxes are dry you can use an electric orbital sander to remove all traces of excess glue and any joint imperfections until you are left with a smooth neat box ready for finishing.

8.                  With the solid wood cabinets the care you take here getting the surfaces well rubbed down will pay benefits when you apply the finishing coats. If you are going to use wrap-on vinyl over the MDF you only need to clean down the surfaces with a barely damp cloth to remove any dust which would prevent the vinyl from adhering properly. If you are going to paint the boxes you will need to apply a sealer first to prevent the paint soaking into the edge cuts of the MDF.

9.                  Once the finish has been done it’s a simply matter to fit the speaker terminals and drivers.

10.             Fit the speaker wires to the terminals by soldering or using the supplied spade connectors. Use the white and brown leads for the positive (red) terminals and the blue and green/yellow for the negative (black). Place the bare ends of the wires into the round hole of the spades and crimp firmly with pliers. You want a tight fit so use pliers if necessary to squeeze the spades so that they fit firmly onto the terminal tabs.

11.             Once all 4 wires are on the terminals feed them through from the outside so that the terminal blocks are flush with the back surface of the cabinet backs and the wires go inside the cabinets. Reach inside the cabinets via the driver hole to feed the wires up and out the front ready to connect to the drivers. Screw the terminals into position with the supplied screws (drill pilot holes first). Don’t overtighten, you just need to do them up until the foam gasket is slightly compressed.

12.             At this stage you can line the inside of the enclosures with the acoustic “wool”. Place the wool along the bottom under the tuning port, up the back and across the top. Cut off the excess and use down each side. Make sure the rear of the port is not blocked.

13.             You can now connect the wires to the drivers – the positive terminal on the driver is identified by a red dot. If using the spade connectors make sure they are a tight fit. If soldering be careful not to apply so much heat that the braids to the voice coil come off.

14.             The JX92S drivers will fit snugly into the rebates and it is not necessary to use any sealing material. Drill 3mm pilot holes and use the supplied screws to hold them firmly in position. Make sure the driver is sitting flat onto the rebate. When fixed the front face of the driver surround should be flush with the front panel.

15.             These are “bookshelf” size speakers so should not be placed on the floor. Use 600mm or higher stands, or stand them on a shelf or on top of other furniture. They can go close to walls. Experiment with position to find what sounds best in your room.

16.             The speakers need to be “burned in” so the best results will probably be achieved after a couple of weeks.

17.             On the EJJordan website mention is made of a simple passive network in series with the driver to enhance the low frequency response. We have not found this necessary but if you wish to experiment we can supply the components.